Another road trip

This post is for those who followed my blog last summer.
I am heading to Texas in April. If you want to follow along with me go to www.newtexasoldtexas.blogspot.com and subscribe. This trip will include UConn Women's basketball team's tripp to the final four, miles and miles of empty roads passing through ranches and fields of wildflowers, and Austin, Texas home of the "bat bridge".

Back to the daily grind

I ended my trip a little shy of Helena, MT. 300 miles shy.
Cycling 650 miles from Portland OR to Missoula, MT is still an accomplishment.
I enjoyed my ride, the people I met along the way, the scenery, and the overall experience.
My bike is being shipped UPS back to Connecticut. I am looking forward to getting it back to do some local riding.
I'll go back to being an office nerd on Sunday.
There will be more adventures to come.
Thanks for following me on this one.

September 7, 2009

I tramped all over Missoula today. I started with a bike ride to Food for Thought ~ a local restaurant across the street from the University of Montana. I have given up on pancakes/flapjacks on the west coast. They just don't know how to make them. Tough and chewy ~ you need a steak knife to cut through them.

Seems like the University is a good place for students interested in earth sciences.

I went to the library to discover my glasses were broken. At the book store I bought the only pair of 3.00 reading glasses. Bifocal style with a stunning leopard print. Back to the library to update the blog and check emails. I left the library and rode my bike back to the motel and waited out the passing shower.

After the rain shower passed I took a 20 minute walk to find Open Road Bicycles - the store I would use to ship my bike back home. On the walk back I stumbled upon Bernice's bakery and had an ice tea. I will return there for breakfast tomorrow. I stayed at Bernice's for a while and read my book. I also read the local newspaper. I noticed an ad for a "farm league" baseball game for today. No location or time was given.

I decided to take one of the many bike/pedestrian trails back to the University and get details on a computer about the game. The ballpark is off of Orange street. Starts at 7:00. Box tickets on the third base line are $9.00.

Later I walked down Main Street to grab a pizza at a place recommended to me by the park ranger at the Lolo visitor center. Very good. The Osprey (the equivalent of the Rock Cats) are a farm league for the Arizona Diamond Backs. I stayed till the seventh leaving with the score of 8 to 6. I left before the game as I was tired and getting cold. Temperatures were to dip down to 45 and the chill was setting in.

September 6, 2009

I got myself going early this morning ~ 4:30 am and was on the road by 5:50. I discarded anything that was not needed to lighten the load up the mountain. Kinda of felt like I was trying to save a sinking ship. The four bagels that wouldn't get eaten, stove fuel that wouldn't be burned, the paper book novel I finished ~ all trashed.

My hope was the mountain grade was over exaggerated like the rest of the grades seemed to have been on the map. Morning is my best time for a challenge, so off I went.

The first 7 miles there was a noticeable incline. I used the middle gear and averaged about 8 miles per hour. It's the Sunday before Labor day and there is virtually no traffic.

When I came to the sign requiring chains on trucks when the lights are flashing and another sign indicating a passing lane, I knew the steepest part was in front of me.

The climb was steep and steady for six miles. It took me about 1.5 hours to get to the top ~ Lolo pass. (Cole they named a mountain pass after your auntie!) I pedaled, walked some, stopped some. It was cloudy with fog sinking in the valley/gulch far below. The adjoining mountains were either thick with vivid green pine, or barren from logging.

The top of the mountain is Lolo Pass with an elevation of 5,225 feet. In 13 miles I climbed 1,900 feet. There is a real nice visitor station on top run by the National Forest Service. Bathrooms, coffee, internet, helpful staff, loads of information. I hung out here for a good hour.

After leaving the center's parking lot I immediately cross the state line leaving Idaho and entering Montana. I also cross a time zone. (trivia ~ Idaho is a state that has two different time zones.)

From here it is 23 miles down hill. Yee haa!!

There is a noticeable difference in the land scape. The rock formations are softer, like the wind has worn them away. There are no sharp edges. Every thing is rounded and curved.

There is space. There is the river, road and flat land between the mountains. Previously, I was riding next to the river or next to a rock ledge. It is also colder. Not sure if that is because of the weather front that pushed through or that is just how it is.

I passed through Lolo Springs. There are actually hot springs in the area. Then I come through an area with large log cabin homes with acreage. Looks like people who own these places want to appear to be ranchers but is all for show.

I can tell Missoula is coming up as I hit the trailer home parks. Missoula is considered a college town and is home to the University of Montana. I will be staying in Missoula for two days.

It is quieter than normal downtown as it is after 5 on a Sunday. I am able to buy wine at a grocery store on a Sunday. The selection is very good. They do have package stores here but with a different twist. The package stores are also casinos and there is one on every corner.

I am struck by the number of homeless people, most of them young - 16-25 years old. By their faces I would guess the root of the problem is dug related. I see a bill board that says drug abuse cost $388 million tax dollars in the state of Montana. I think it is a low number from what little I have seen or the state is not providing adequate services.

I have travelled a total distance of 627 miles.

September 5, 2009

Today I went from Lowell to Powell a total of 42 miles with a managable uphill grade. Highway 12's scenery was much the same as yesterday. With little traffic you could hear the river rushing by. There were a few people out in the river casting their fly rods out in hopes of catching a trout.

I am camping at the National Forest Powell campsite. There was a 30 minute terrential down pour. Luckily my tent was set up and gear inside before it started. Even better was the fact I took a walk up to the Losha lodge for a glass of wine and huckleberry cobbler and watch the storm pass from inside.

When I returned to the tent everything was dry.

September 4, 2009

Today will take me from Kooskia to Lowell. I'm pretty sure I remember some decent climbs on the map. None came. It was a steady grade up. I would shift in and out of the big gear.

There was very little traffic. The river was on my right as I continued on twisting U.S. Highway 12. Surroundings in this wilderness corridor are spectacular: a medley of bright-green grasses and ferns, subdued forests of mixed conifers, sunlight dancing off the bubbling river, boulders makein "v's" in the current. One fascinating man-mad feature was the roadside gondolas that takes people across the river on stout cables to their private residence. (The picture that is sideways).

There was a lot of road work being done whichwas fine with me. It kept traffic slower and more spaced. There were two or three times I needed to follow a "pace" car throught the construction sites.

I camped in a National Park camp site. No showers. So i opted for a sponge bath in the river..

september 3, 2009

I am temporarily out of the communication black hole of Idaho so I will update you on the days I have been absent.

Thursday was a flat ride with tailwinds. Love those tailwinds. The temperature was mid 80's and partly cloudy. The ride followed the snake river. Not much shoulder room but the traffic was light.

The scenery was nice. Sorta like upper state Vermont or New Hampshire. No pictures today. I packed the camera rain was in the forecast.

Three mishaps today that had me calling car rentals to end the trip. No luck. So looks like I'm going to have to grin and bear it.

1. Threw out my map at Subway by mistake.
2. Front flat tire. (I think I qualify for the Tour d'France pit crew.)
3. Front bag screw came out.

I found my warmshower house in Kooskia. Laurie is the host. The house belonged to her grandmother. When I spoke to Laurie she was in Illinois for cancer consultation/treatments. With all she must be dealing with, she didn't skip a beat to get me directions. (Laurie ~ I pulled the trash can to the front of the house in hope someone would take it.) Laurie was on my mind throughout the day.

The house was a classic. Very 50's. Reminds me of my Grandma Wards house only allot cleaner. Even has a rotary phone.

Life of Reiley

Another hot day with temps hitting 100! I'm glad I am staying in an airconditioned room. I took today off to Jet Boat down the Snake River. This particular boat holds about 20 people although only 11 where on it today

We went about 98 miles up the river just shy of Hells Canyon. We banged our way through some class IV rapids. We stopped along the river for breakfast and later for lunch. I took a swim. Water was pretty warm. We saw some mountain sheep, deer, indian rock carvings and lots of beautiful scenery. It was an all day trip from 7 am to 4 pm.

Back on the road again tomorrow.

Short day

September 1, 2009

I had breakfast at the local old guys hang out. All the talk was about the old Walmart closing today in Lewiston, ID and the new Super Walmart opening tomorrow in the next town over, Clarkston, WA. Conversation moved to wolf hunting, and best place for fish for sturgeon.

One of the "old guys" was the overseerer of the fairgrounds. I told him I had stayed there and wanted to know the fee so I could pay for the use of the facilities. There was no fee unless I was a motorhome. How about that.

Later on my ride I waved at him going the otherway. He was returning from Walmart.

Today featured the longest and steepest hill yet. It was about 3 miles long with a 750 foot change in elevation. I knew I was in for a haul. At the base of the hill was a trunoff for trucks to put chains on. Then there was a passing lane on the up side. And I had my first experience with head winds.

I did make the summit of Alpowai. Then it was a 10 mile desent. I was glad I came up the shorter distance.

Near the bottom, route 12 follows the Snake River. I found a convinent place to pull off and walk into the river to cool my feet.

Once in Clarkston, I booked a room for two nights. Tomorrow I am booked for an all day jet boat ride down the Snake River.

I have put on 401 miles on the odometer since landing in Portland.

Evil thorns and biker baffoons

Aug 31, 2009
I delayed my start time today so that I could visit the bike shop. I have had two flat tires and my confidence is wavering. The flats were caused by a thorn, referred to as a goat head. I refer to it as the evil thorn.

The tire was changed out with my spare. The spare is made of Kevlar~same stuff they use to make bullet proof vests. It will probably slow me down a bit because of the knobbies on the tire. I also had a thick rubber liner put in between the tube and the tire. I think I'm thorn proof now. I also have two new spares plus my patched up spares. I am thorn ready!

My late start put me on the road for the hottest part of the day. (It's been well over 90 each day). Not a cloud in the sky and not a tree to be found.

From Walla Walla, WA I went to Waitsburg, WA then to Dayton, WA. At Dayton I had to
either stay or push on to Pomeroy. I decided to push on knowing I might not get there till after 7 pm. The ride was rolling hills of freshly harvested wheat and barley.

Once I arrived in Pomeroy (population 1,517) it was 7:30 pm. I decided to eat dinner at a restaurant, find the campground, pitch the tent and call it a day.

Only restaurant open was a "biker bar". I talked with the chief cook and bottlewasher standing outside the door. She assured me the food was good.. Another patron held the door open allowing me to bring my bike inside. Not much going on~maybe six people total inside. As promised, the food was good.

Once back outside it was not dark. I put on my rear flasher and front light to find the fairgrounds to pitch the tent.

Each town has an annual fair. It's thee annual event to the locals. All the farmers bring their prize bull, cow, horse, sheep, peach, apple, wine, you name it, for display. When the fair isn't going on you can use the grounds to camp. Bathrooms and showers are available.

I pitched my tent on cushy grass near the bathrooms and showers. Pitched the tent in the dark. Locked up the bike and headed to the showers. The showers had MOM over one door and POP over the other. I chose the MOM door.

After my shower I wrapped myself in a towel. I was brushing my teeth over the sink when some biker dud comes in to use the shower. One look at me and he apologized profusely and backed out the door.

A couple of things came to mind:
He can't read
He doesn't equate MOM with women
Bikers aren't the macho men they would have you beleive they are.

geology lesson

Before I get started on Sunday's ride, let's talk about last night (Saturday). I stayed at an RV/camp ground. It was a nice enough place. Cushy green grass to pitch the tent.

I have a bit of a phobia about my bide getting stolen. Each night I secure it. This night was no different. That night I slept more soundly than prevous nights. At 3:30 am I woke with a start. I heard click, click, click - like the sound the chain makes when you are walking it. I quickly unzipped my tent to see the bike securely fastened and a million sprinkler heads clicking away watering the cushy green grass!

Sunday was another hot flat day. I passed by Hat Rock. It is one of several volcanic plugs that resisted erosion during the Spokane Flood and was noted by Capt. William Clark. The Spokane Flood is the greatest known flood in earth history.

Later I passed a road (there are not many roads off these routes so you remember the ones you do pass) where you could go to the state prision, the state beach and see a historic landmark - all on the same road. Now if you had some one in the slammer, you could make the day of it!

I rode US730 the US12. On route 730 I am in the vicinity of Walla Walla Gap where the Columbia River cuts through the Horse Heaven Hills. This is at the southern end of western Washington's "Channeled Scablands", a deeply scarred landscape largely void of vegetation that resulted from the Spokane Flood.

The flood occurred between 18,000 and 20,000 years ago, was the culmination of a unique meeting of geoligical and meterological phenomena: A series of widespread lava flows, then a regional down-tilting of the landscape, followed by the deposition of a thick layer of wind-blown silt known as loess.

After the scablands there is a long line of wind turbines. There are over 400 of them and they are part of the Stateline Wind Project.

My final destination is 330 S. Palouse St. Walla Walla, Washington. Here I am hosted by Dan Calzaretta. He and his family are part of Warmshowers.org. They open their home to me, giving me a bed, access to a shower and laundry. Their family of four biked across America last year. He is a teacher. His wife, Alison, is a peditrician. Throughout their home they have this sign posted:
From this joyful home
We go forth to be
loyal, responsible, couragous leaders.

Marathon

90 miles of flat rolling hills with a tail wind. Today's ride had me in Washington state.
For a while the land scape had large black rocks scattered about. They looked like reminants from and volcano eruption from a long time ago.
Saw lots of wind mills pumping out that clean energy. They must be more being built as trucks were going buy hauling the wings.
Had a flat tire about 55 miles into the ride. The rear one. Always fun to change.
Saw three people doing the trail going the other way. Watching them peddle against the wind made me glad I was going west to east.
I am in Umatilla, OR where I will stay the night.

Forget lions, tigers, and bears

How about fire, wind, and water. Twice today I had to take an alternate route because of forest fires. Then high winds kicked in. Luckily most of the time it was a tail wind. At the switchbacks, it did get a little dicey. Especially going down hill with shear cliffs on your left to plummet down or rock face on your right to slam into.
Dan would be proud. I made a 6 mile assent with a 5% grade with out walking.
Looks like rain ahead, so this will be short.
I am writing from The Dalles, OR. I have about 20 miles to go to reach Biggs where I will cross the river and camp in Washington.

Falls & Gorges

Today is a hot one. Luckily most of my ride is in the shade. An early start got me to the Vista House. The house was built in 1917. It has one of the best views in the entire Columbia Gorge.

I stopped frequently once I was on the Historic Columbia River High Way. There are many hiking trails and spectacular water falls to see. Mulnoniah Falls claims to be the second highest in the US. I hiked into the Oninina (sp?) gorge. To get there you have to wade through icy water, climb over a huge log and bolder dam and wade through more water. Once you get over that barrier you are at the bottom of a gorge that is about 25 feet wide. Just beautiful.

After riding on the Interstate 84 I was able to pick up a bike trail. No fun riding on an interstate. Tractor trailers here can haul three trailers. I had two trucks pass me with wind mill blades. At the end of the bike trail is a steep staircase with a grove in it for your bike. Good grief. I was glad I was going down it and not up.

I'm pecking at the keyboard in Cascade Locks, OR. The one room library is in the building that contains the "city" hall, a basketball gym and the library. Pretty hookie. I have about another ten miles to go and one decent size hill. Then I pitch my tent at Viento State Park.

Portland

I took full advantage of a sunny dry day. First stop was the Powell Book store. This stop was recommended to me by the couple I sat next to on the plane. It is the largest family owned book store in the country. It was amazing. As dorky as is sounds, better than a library. The brick building is three stories high and is divided up to into multiple rooms, each with it's own color. Neat place.

Then I rode up to the daily farmers market. Good stuff. Mushrooms, peaches, strawberries, tomatoes, garlic, salmon, cheese. I picked up a few items for tomorrows cookout.

From there I took a climb up to Keller Woods. From a few vantage points you could see the city, the Columbia river, the many bridges crossing it and Mt. Hood in the distance.

After a hot shower I met up with Chuck at the Horse Brass for a few beers and some fish and chips. Nice place. Good company. Conversation was easy and fun.

Plusses & Minuses of getting from here (CT) to there (OR)

Plus: Bike and camping gear arrived in Portland same day and time that I did.
Minus: Continental's Rosie the Riveter charged me $100 to sling my bike box and bag around.
Plus: Bike shop only 1 mile from Portland hotel and is open till 8:00 pm
Minus: Bike computer wires severed. $100 to replace.
To ease the $200 day, I am drinking a Rogue Dead Guy Ale at the Park City Pub. I decided to pass on the Philly Steak house special and opted for a chees quesadilla.
Not much to say about Portland today. Gas is over $2.90 a gallon. The temp today is the mid 60's. People are friendly.
The bike is ready to "Rock 'n Roll". (Which is the name of the model of the bike).

Trial pack

I packed the bags and hitched them up to the bike. I think I am actually 10-15 pounds lighter than my last trip. Half of that weight reduction came of my frame. I also rid myself of a heavy tarp, bought a lighter tent, and reduced the clothes. I even have extra room and I am resisting the temptation of filling space. For those of you have hiked or biked, you have a greater appreciation of understanding that every ounce lost is big.
I recently read about warmshowers.org and signed myself up both as a host and a participant. It's an online source for finding places to stay for those traveling by bicycle. Sounds like a great resource and a neat way to meet the locals.
The Lewis & Clark Trail is listed as one of the 1000 places to see before you die. The Columbia River Gorge in Oregon specifically. Another one to cross off the list!

Two wheels are headed to the

Lewis and Clark trail west to east. The trail extends from Astoria, Oregon to Hartford, Illinois a distance of more than 3,200 miles. President Jefferson's planned expedition through the Lousiana Purchase took more than two years and is considered a feat compariable to the landing of the moon.

I hope to cover a third of this in three weeks. I will start from Portland Oregon with a final destination of Helena, MT.

Thankfully I have a bicycle and paved roadways. I will be able to experience many of the same sights, sounds, and elements that Capt. William Clark and Capt. Meriwether Lewis encountered. The sense of exploration, awe and discovery.

Another bonus of bicycle travel is the people you meet along the way. I love discovering America and the people that make this country great.

Ten more days till the plane leaves. I've hauled the gear out of the attic. Made an inventory. Set up the tent. Rolled out the sleeping bag. Fired up the cook stove. Made the check list.